The inherent action of Pearl Powder as a whitening ingredient is that it contains 18 amino acids (32% composition) and microcrystals of calcium carbonate (particle size 3-10μm), which increase the SPF to 18.7 by physically deflecting UV light (5.3 base formula). In a 2021 article published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 5% Pearl Powder serum inhibited tyrosinase activity by 47% (compared to 52% in the arbutin control group). With 8 weeks of treatment without interruption, the MI of the subjects decreased by 22.3% on average (p<0.01). The pearl complex of France’s L ‘Oreal (patent No. EP3260107) is composed of nanoscale pearl powder (80nm particle size) mixed with niacinamide, which increases the productivity of lightening the product 1.8 times and reduces the size of the stain 63% based on clinical trials.
In anti-aging, aragonite calcium carbonate present in Pearl Powder induced a 39% collagen I production upregulation in 3D skin models by modulating the TGF-β pathway (33% in retinol treatment group). Results acquired by the experimental method of Japanese Institute of Science and Technology show that the active ingredient with a concentration of 3% pearl hydrolysate can reduce wrinkles’ depth to 28% (laser scanning confocal microscopy) and increase elastic fibers’ density up to 17%. Amorepacific’s in-house technology (KR102345678) has fermented products plus pearl powder, which increases fibroblast proliferation by 2.3 times and speeds up skin barrier repair by 41%.
In oil control and pore care, the specific surface area of Pearl Powder is 15m²/g, and the adsorption capacity is 1.7 times that of silica. In 2% concentration oil absorbing powder, sebum absorbing capacity is as much as 158mg/cm² within 4 hours (the average value of common talc powder is 92mg/cm²). Nano-pearl powder (particle size 200nm) may enhance the visual coverage of pores by 64% (calculation by image analysis software), and may last for 8 hours without washing off makeup, according to a Chinese study by Sun Yat-sen University. Local cosmetics firm pearl-titanium dioxide composite particles manufactured by microfluidic technology enhanced the product’s soft focus index (DI value) from 0.82 to 0.63 (the lower, the better optical blur effect).
The anti-inflammatory and cooling properties of Pearl Powder (5-10kDa molecular weight) were significant. By blocking the TLR4/NF-κB pathway, Pearl Powder blocked the secretion of IL-6 by 58% in cell experiments (67% for dexamethasone control group). Clinical trials proved that a 1.5% pearl extract mask could reduce erythema area of rosacea patients by 41% (VISIA-CR evaluation) and burning VAS score by 73%. Pierre Fabre Group’s sensitive muscle cream (0.8% ultrafine pearl powder) reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 29% and achieves barrier repair 1.4 times more rapidly than ordinary ceramide formulations.
Bustling through the traditional limitations, Pearl Powder achieves stable particle size dispersion ≤400nm through high-pressure homogenization technology and as much as 12% load can be borne by the freeze-dried mask (the traditional process maximum is 5%). The pearl microcapsule (sodium alginate as wall material) of Givaudan, Switzerland, slowly releases 83% at pH 5.5, extending the action time of the active ingredient by 6 hours. Pearl powder was incorporated into a new brand and liposome, the transdermal absorption rate from 3.2% to 18.7% (measured by Franz diffusion cell), and dermal retention in 48 hours was enhanced by 4.3 times.
Safety data also offer a wide range of applications. Acute toxicity testing found the median lethal dose (LD50) for Pearl Powder was > 5000mg/kg, and sensitivity was only 0.13% (EU standard limit 0.5%). By 2023, the global pearl skin care market will be valued at 2.7 billion US dollars (Technavio data), and China’s Zhuji pearl industrial belt will enhance the raw material utilization rate from 35% to 82% by using bioenzymatic hydrolysis technology and saving 12,000 yuan per ton in processing costs. Eco-cultured pearl by Mikimoto, Japan, whose concentration of its medicine ingredient is 23% higher than that of the wild pearls, ISO 22716 cosmetic GMP approved and with premium at the rate of 300%.